DESTINATIONS LIBRARY: No. 5 TREKKING THE HIMALAYA Pictures © Jane Neville

For those who enjoy the walking experience, but are not sure whether they could cope with the demands of the Himalaya, the option of trekking with porters makes a journey to this region not only feasible but also most enjoyable.  John and Jane Neville have walked in a variety of mountain ranges in the UK, the Alps and New Zealand, invariably carrying all their own gear, so when they first visited Nepal on an organised trek they really appreciated travelling light…….. There’s no doubt you need to be fairly fit and used to mountain walking to fully enjoy a trek of this nature, but we have often encountered quite elderly people participating in this kind of holiday and also the not-so-old but quite inexperienced.  Some treks are mainly or entirely under canvas but for those who don’t enjoy camping there is simple but friendly accommodation to be had in the lodges and tea houses along the routes.  We have trekked in the Annapurna and Everest Regions, on each occasion with Exodus Travel, one of the companies at the forefront of ‘eco-tourism’, who have impressed us with their excellent organisation, attention to detail and, in particular, to the health and safety aspects which are so important when travelling at altitude.  But you can easily travel independently if you prefer- some people take the hard option of going it alone and carrying their own gear but the usual custom is to hire a porter or Sherpa guide.

The majority of treks begin in Kathmandu with a couple of days to acclimatise and take in the many fascinating sights, sounds and smells of this extraordinary city.  On both occasions we stayed in top class hotels and were very comfortable - the contrast with the life style of the average inhabitant of Kathmandu is very thought provoking!
Kathmandu – vegetable market		Buddha at Bodhnath
After the heat, hustle and bustle and noise of the city another huge contrast awaits at the end of an interesting bus journey (!) or even more interesting flight by small aircraft (!!) to the start of the route.  In our case the former was to a place a little beyond Pokhara to begin the Annapurna Sanctuary trek and the latter to Lukla and its remarkable mountainside airstrip for the High Passes of Everest trek.  There couldn’t be a greater difference between the experience so far and the sudden peace of the mountains.	………. lengthening shadows and just wait till the stars come out!
……an early start but not without porridge	We’re woken early, with ‘bed-tea’ and a bowl of hot water for washing, but breakfast is taken in style and never skimped……. and with a lunchtime picnic of cooked as well as cold food there’s no risk of going hungry. At the end of the day’s walk the trekker arrives at camp to find the porters have already pitched the tents, the cook-boys are busy with the supper and there is a refreshing mug of hot lemon or tea ready.  After a convivial supper (a mix of local and western style food) with fellow trekkers, and one of the Sherpa guides waiting at table, we’re ready to ‘hit the hay’.
A Sirdar will be in charge of the expedition assisted by three or so Sherpa guides.  The porters take all the equipment – proud of the incredible weights they carry – leaving the trekkers to carry a small day sack and plenty of boiled water.  Everyone walks at his own pace – there’s always a Sherpa to bring up the rear.  In some areas pack animals are used to carry some of the gear – at the higher altitudes it’s yaks (an incredible animal which also provides good meat, milk, cheese, hide, wool and even its dung is collected and made into flat ‘cakes’, dried and used for fuel.		The porters take the strain (that’s a porter, not a trekker carrying the jerry can!)
Yaks have minds of their own and can be quite difficult to load up.
The early section of the Annapurna trek is through a beautiful farming region with remote villages and friendly people to meet.	Farming techniques are primitive and involve a good deal of terracing!
Teahouse at Deurali, Annapurna region		There are plenty of lodges and teahouses along the route for refreshments and a little relaxation.
The route up to Everest passes Thyangboche Monastery – setting for the customary puja ceremony before an attempt on Everest.	Thyangboche Monastery
	Then, as you climb higher, you get your first glimpses of the mountains you’ve come so far to see …… …….. Machhapuchhare – ‘the Fish’s Tail’ – guardian of the entrance to the Annapurna Sanctuary………..
……amazing Ama Dablam which dominates the approach to Everest…………
Everest                   Nuptse		……….…..and at last, the reward for the supreme effort to conquer the effects of altitude, this magnificent view of the Everest summit, a mere 5 miles as the eagle flies from the average trekker’s highest point on the summit of Kala Pattar (18,192ft/5,545m).

A few helpful hints:
Health:	Malaria – only a problem in some places and not at all times of the year – check with your doctor. Food and drink – most food is safe but follow the usual precautions:  if you can’t cook it or peel it – forget it.  Water should be boiled and on trek treated with iodine.  Try not to use bottled water more than necessary as there is no satisfactory way of disposing of the plastic bottle.  On neither of our treks did we suffer from diarrhoea but go prepared!  Trek leaders also carry comprehensive medicine chests and first aid supplies. Altitude sickness – affects different people in different ways and the same person in different ways on different occasions – you just never can tell!  Acclimatisation on the way up is essential and if affected more than slightly it is foolhardy not to retreat lower down for a spell.  As time is built in on organised treks for acclimatisation this is usually not necessary and even if it is it’s usually possible to catch up with the group.  Drinking large quantities of fluids (4 litres a day is good) goes a long way towards preventing altitude sickness.
Experience and Fitness:	There is very little of technical difficulty on the average trek but there’s no doubt that some fitness preparation beforehand is well worth the time and effort as it will enhance the enjoyment hugely and may make all the difference between achieving the objective or not.  There is very little flat walking – it’s mostly either up or down, often very steeply.  But the trails are generally well engineered as these are the only method of travel in the mountains.  More and more people are discovering the value of a pair of trekking poles – they really do save wear and tear on the knee joints and make for stability over more difficult terrain.
Clothing:	Good supportive boots are essential.  Temperatures vary enormously – it can be very hot during the day, especially at lower altitudes and very cold at night (-11C inside the tent on the upper reaches of our Everest trek!) so the layer system of clothing is good and a first rate duvet jacket for early mornings, evenings and nights is essential.  For daytime walking shorts are OK for men (not very short and never go without a shirt of some kind) and longer ones or trousers for ladies but, especially in the more out of the way areas, modesty is appreciated by the people who are themselves very modest in their dress and behaviour and a longish trekking skirt for ladies for warmer days is actually cooler and less restricting and surprisingly easy to move in.  Headgear, of course, as protection against the sun (first rate skin protection will be needed too) and against the cold and good sunglasses/snow goggles if going above the snow line.
When to go:	Pre-monsoon, i.e. springtime in England, is good for wild flowers and rhododendrons but the air will be more humid and the views will tend to be less clear.  Post-monsoon, from end of October till the end of the year, when it gets too cold, is better for clear views and there is less likelihood of rain.

FINALLY ………… The Himalaya is a sensitive region ecologically so travel with a company which is aware of the problems and respects the environment and its people and is concerned for the welfare of those it employs, particularly the porters.

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